Thursday, June 10, 2010

On the Road: Taliesin


I have been a fan of Frank Lloyd Wright's architecture since I discovered him as a college student. For years I carried around a copy of The Living City, his futuristic look at what cities could someday resemble. But mostly I was a fan of his plain and simple forms and the idea that a building should be part of its surroundings, not overwhelming them. And the idea of inside spaces and outside spaces converging. He was very much influenced by Japanese ideas of the harmony of all things natural. So it was natural that a trip to the Upper Midwest would include a visit to Taliesin, his home near Spring Green, Wisconsin. First of all, the home is in a beautiful setting, especially in summer. The surroundings are rolling hills, a beautiful valley river, and gorgeous countryside. A double-wide trailer would look good here and have beautiful views from any window. But Taliesin is lovely, though as our guide told us, in need of much restoration work just to keep it from falling down. Wright spared no expense when spending his clients' money, but was cheaper and more willing to cut corners with his own. But it was nice to be able to sit in the great room at Taliesin and look out at the beautiful landscape and feel perfectly at home, at ease.

Monday, June 7, 2010

On the Road: Minnesota


We're in the "land of sky-blue waters," Minnesota. We are spending the night at the Kettle Falls Hotel, which could be reached only by boat or air. We rode over in a boat captained by the hotel's owner. It's very isolated here (though we have Internet access!) and we have just spent a pleasant hour or so sitting on the screen porch chatting with fishermen who come up here on fishing trips every year. They are a very convivial group. Now we are heading for dinner and then perhaps we will go out for a little canoeing or boating. It stays light very late here and gets light very early!

Saturday, June 5, 2010

On the Road: Copper Harbor, Michigan


We're just back from Isle Royale National Park, spending another night in Copper Harbor, Michigan. The 3.5 hour ferry ride to the island was nice and smooth yesterday, but bumpy and foggy today. We took a nice 4 mile hike to Suzy's Cave (heard wolves howling) before retiring to our cabin for a home-cooked meal of bacon, scrambled eggs and beans. The island's only hotel (and restaurant) hasn't opened for the season yet so we stayed in a cabin and our supper came from what was available at the small dockside store. There's something about not having food readily available that makes you hungrier (and think about food!). Anyway, supper was good and we had cereal for breakfast and odds and ends snack foods on the ferry. We're looking forward to supper at the Harbor Haus! After they kicked us out of our cabin this morning, we sat around in a portion of the lodge that was opened for us and sat by a nice hot fire, talking with other vacationers in the same situation.

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

On the Road: Mackinac Island, Michigan


It's a beautiful day here on Mackinac Island. We came over on the ferry this morning and took a three-hour bike ride around the island. We had the road to ourselves, except for other cyclists and the occasional horse-drawn vehicle. Mackinac (pronounced Mackinaw and sometimes even spelled that way) outlawed motor vehicles in 1898 and has not seen fit to change the law since. It makes for a very pleasant place and certainly one that children enjoy. We have a room with a harbor view at the Chippewa Hotel and we watch the comings and goings of the ferries at the nearby dock. Other than being automobile-free, the town is famous for its fudge and we plan to try some of that later. For now, though, we are just taking it easy and enjoying the view of the harbor from the balcony of our room. We can't linger, though. Tomorrow a big government conference is convening here for the rest of the week so we will push on, across the Mackinac Strait's famous five-mile-long bridge that runs from Mackinaw City (on the mainland) to the Upper Peninsula at St. Ignace.